Milling

This house is on the Western side of the Welland Canal in Port Colborne.  It is on the South end of King Street before the road becomes commercial.  It is a short distance from the ADM mill.  I find more of these old brick houses near at the ends of the canals.  As is usually the case, I find one -- but rarely more.

Milling likely played a key role in the construction of these types of brick houses.  Mill and factory owners would have been the ones to build grand homes, while the other lots were used to house workers.

The ADM mill in Port Colborne is part of a large conglomerate (Archer Daniel Midland) that also owns a mill in Buffalo.  At one time, Buffalo was the grain center of America (c. 1925).  Mills in Black Rock were productive and important in the early part of the 19^th century but ultimately failed to succeed because they could not compete with the facilities that were built on the harbor in Buffalo.  The mills in Black Rock never fully harnessed water power – rather than relying on the current of the Niagara River and instead used a small water fall that was created between the canal and the river.

The mills in Black Rock burned down and that form of industry died out.  The earliest mills were the Globe and North Buffalo Mills.  Managers from the Globe mill ended up opening the Thornton and Chester Milling Company.  From tracing the title of the Dayton House while researching for the registry application, we found that one occupant was the manager/CEO of the Chester Milling Company.

People always think of the mills downtown as the only evidence of the predominance of Buffalo in the grain industry.    There are really no vestiges of the industry as it once existed in Black Rock, other than the few remaining homes that housed the residents connected to the mills.

Port Colborne

Port Colburne is a town in situated at the South end of the Welland Canal.  It shares a few similarities with Black Rock.  The town was founded in 1832 and like Black Rock, life revolved around a canal.  The Welland Canal connects Lakes Erie and Ontario.  Today's canal was not the original -- there was an earlier version that opened in 1829.  It took five years to build the 26 mile waterway.

The main source of industry in the early days of the Welland Canal were nickel mining.  That industry benefited from the hydro power of Niagara Falls.  The town was prosperous enough to have a healthy start, but like Buffalo, the prosperity did not continue.  Unlike Buffalo, Port Colborne's canal never went out of use and is well used today.  The first ship to pass through the canal did go to Buffalo.

Like Black Rock, Port Colburne has a few old brick  houses that are similar in style to the Dayton House.  This once again proves the theory that you can find these old structures within close proximity of a canal.  Unfortunately, these houses have not fared well.  I have looked and looked along the canal for a surviving old brick example of domestic building for the early canal period, but come up empty  handed.  Here's what's left:

The first house I found is located on the aerial photo in the area I've circled.  This is closer to the terminus of the canal and is probably the oldest of the three structures I found.

The house is no longer occupied as a Residential structure.  Is is part of an industrial property -- a recycling/scrap facility.  The first picture faces South and is the front of the building.  This is a five bay Georgian style.  The addition seems to be a later addition and looks as if it is a separate area.  The second picture is a side view.  As you can tell, this house is a gonner in so many ways.  I don't think it will ever serve as a home again.  Sad!

Further down the road, you have two brick homes that are side by side and both constructed during the same period.  These resemble the Dayton House but there are a few differences as well.  These were also converted from residential to commercial use.  The integrity of the structures have been greatly compromised.  They are obviously in a serious state of deterioration. 

These examples are another example of how rare it is for these canal era brick residences to survive intact.  The ones that I find are always in a very sad state.  That in turn makes me sad.  But it also makes me feel very fortunate for being blessed with the house.  The old brick man is a survivor and I think he still has many strong years ahead of him.  In fact, bearing any great tragedy, I see no reason why the Dayton House won't survive long into the future.  The house has beat the odds for sure!

A Blast -- and Twin from the Past!

This is the very first incarnation of Millard Fillmore hospital.  It’s pretty cool because it looks just like what the Dayton House would have looked like prior to the Italianate update.  What’s even more of a coincidence, I guess, is that Lewis P. Dayton was a doctor.

Back at that time, the practices of medicine were pretty barbaric and unsuccessful.  Most doctors weren’t formally educated and did not have medical degrees or licenses.  Dr. Augustus Hoxsie developed what is known today as “Homeopathic Medicine.”  The principles are much like our modern science of immunology.  Needing a place to practice this form of medicine, his wife raised funds to build a hospital.  The first building that served as the hospital was a modest three story house at the corner of Washington and North Division Streets. It was rented in 1872 , equipment purchased, and the Buffalo Homeopathic Hospital opened in October of that same year. The staff included six physicians, a nurse, a janitor and house cleaning staff. In the beginning, the hospital could accommodate only three patients.

The hospital quickly expanded and is now operating at Gates Circle (although soon to close and relocate).  M&T Plaza now occupies the site where this home once stood.  Homeopathy has never fallen out of practice and that its birth in the US as a modern form of medicine can be traced to Buffalo is one more thing for our city to be proud of.

And it’s pretty cool that the first hospital looks a lot like the Dayton House!

The Other Dayton House

243 is not the only “Dayton House” listed in the National Register.  There is a Dayton House in Lima, NY which was certified 8/31/1989.  It is a structure of local significance which I have not had any real time to research but I am curious about it.

Lewis P. Dayton owned his home in Black Rock in the 1860’s.  Prior to moving to Buffalo/Black Rock, he went to medical school in Geneva, NY.  Lima, NY is not very far from Geneva by today’s standards, but it would probably have been a bit of a trek back in Dayton’s day.  However, maybe it is possible that the same family was involved in both historic structures?  If so, it would be pretty cool!

Here’s a map of where to find the house in Lima:

The house shares many similarities. It was built about 1844 and expanded and upgraded in 1850s / 1860s. It is a two story, three bay dwelling with Greek Revival form and an overlay of Italianate and Gothic Revival design elements.  The Black Rock Dayton House doesn’t contain Gothic Revival touches but it certainly is Greek Revival with a later addition of Italianate.

Here’s a picture of the house from Google Streetview:

The structure is not brick but it carries somewhat similar design components.  The architect/builder is listed as David Dayton.   It is likely that the original roof of the Black Rock Dayton House was the same pitch and configuration as this one.  The three bay first story design is the same too, except for the door being on the right instead of the left.

I would be interesting to get a hold of this homes application to find out if there is any relationship between the Lewis P. Dayton who owned 243 Dearborn and the Dayton’s who lived in Lima.  History is interesting, intriguing and often a bit of a puzzle!



ps. as a curious side/end note... we are moving to a smaller home (The Dayton House will have a new owner soon).  The house we are moving to is a curious combination of features that make it look as if it were a hybrid cross between our Dayton House and this Dayton house!

John Esser at the Dayton House

One owner of the Datyon House that was of some consequence in the latter half of the 19^th century; was John Esser.  Esser was one of the partners who built the Banner Mill in Black Rock in the 1880’s.  He was also part of The Black Rock Land Company: The earliest developer of the area, the Black Rock Land Company, formed in 1888 as the first development company in the city. Comprised of John Hertel, John Esser, Frank Angus, Louis Roesch and Frederick Ullman, they sold the current site of RiversidePark, the former Germania Park to the city, for inclusion in the Buffalo Parks System. The names of many streets in the area reflect their influence here.

Esser Avenue is in Riverside, running between Tonawanda and Skillen Streets:

Along with ownership of the Dayton House, I have been told Esser also owned 87 Amherst Street:



It’s not always easy to determine which owners of the house actually occupied it because the title shows multiple names for certain periods.  At the time where Esser appears on the title, the only names are his and his wife’s.  It may have been that Esser owned and lived in the house either before or during the time 81 Amherst Street was being built. 

John Esser did not hold the same place in history as Mayor Dayton and as a result, it’s not easy to find information about him.  However, he had enough influence to have a street named after him.  He was also an important figure in the development of Black Rock and Riverside.  The Dayton House, as stated in previous posts, was not a home built or occupied by laborers.  It was the type of home that belonged to plant owners, managers or other positions of standing.  John Esser is another example of the type and stature of occupants who held title to the house.

Marking History in Black Rock

This sign hangs above the front door of the Dayton House and it indicates who the house is named for.

This sign is posted at the corner of Amherst and Niagara, at the Western terminus of Amherst St.  Black Rock is historic for many reasons and this marks the beginning of the section of the street where the historic district begins.

This sign marks the spot where the British landed prior to their scorch and torch efforts on December 30th 1812.  This is one of the most historic spots in the city, but few really know about it.

Down the street from the Dayton House is perhaps one of the most historic and important homes as far as the designation and district goes. The Dayton house boasts ownership by a mayor, but the Howell House was built by a man who was far more important.  History shows that he donated one million dollars to the city in order to help establish it.  Back in 1830, that was a substantial sum.  Can someone please step forward with a similar largess today?

Folks often wonder what historic designation does for a home or area.  The Federal and State designation is quite different from local districts and the effect on property values are strongly affected by the type of designation.  Federal and State designation is usually the result of an effort to protect an area, neighborhood or structure from demolition or devaluation as the result of an infrastructure project.  This was the case with Black Rock.  The study was done to protect this part of the city from a project which sought to build an international truck bridge.  The effect would have been devastating.  The study and designation has ensured a stable future for the neighborhood and we are grateful for it.

Local designations are often sought for neighborhoods that seek to achieve a certain cache and are in need of revitalization.  A prime example would be Allentown which is governed by the Allentown Association.  There is a strict committee that oversees the development and future improvements for the area and seeks to preserve the physical characteristics and charm of the district.  Within the district there are also Federal and State designated properties, but not all buildings in Allentown are designated historic.

The type of designation a structure has affects its over-all property value.  It's a complex topic and most research done to quantify the benefits have been done by urban planners and other civic organizations.  It is hard to broadly apply the results because each city/town is different. 

For Federal and State designated properties, there is extra value because of tax credits available for repairs and improvements that meet the SHPO and Federal guidelines as being done for the good of the house.  If the application does not meet standards, the work can still be done -- there is no restriction on style, materials, etc.  The issue is with what is considered worthy of receiving the tax credit.  Things like a new boiler, roof replacement, and other sort of repairs that keep the house standing.

Local districts face a different standard.  Repairs and other enhancements must keep with the character of the district and are subject to a board/committee approval.  The owner of a building in a local district faces much stronger standards and obstacles when it comes to working on their property.

Valuation of properties are affected by designations.  It is generally recognized that a designation will usually add 15% value to the property.  An additional 15% can be considered appropriate if a person of note lived or owned it.  This means the person or group needs to be rather famous or have enough notoriety to be recognizable -- or a very important event had to have taken place that is widely  known about.  An additional 15% can be added of the structure itself is of superior construction, style or quality.  On the whole a property does very well if it achieves a valuation of 131% as a result of it's status.

Often Federal/State will help add value because the cost to maintain the property is offset by tax credits and also because there is less cost involved because historically correct/committee certified material isn't required.  Homes that must go through a strict approval process can actually suffer because there is an assumption that maintenance will be more onerous.  Then again, if the district itself means the house is situated in a superior location because of the district, location can trump that concern.

The location of an historic property can affect its value too.  A home that is nearer to a major city or important historic area will generally value higher than one which is remote or further away.  A truly horrible/dangerous location might weigh negatively in the analysis of over-all value, but the designation will still probably help the building gain a higher value over other properties in proximity to it.

Finally, the cost to restore a building come into the equation.  If it will cost more than 50% of a building's over-all value to bring it up to functional and "restored" standard, that can negatively affect any sort of Cost Valuation done on the property.

This is a very general explanation.  Accurate valuation of an historic property can only be done by a highly qualified, certified and registered professional (a CRA is a Certified Residential Appraiser).  While it is generally held that an historic property carries a higher value than it's non designated counter-part a true analysis of it's value is not always easy to attain.  The major goal in determiningt the worth of any home is the life it will provide.  We are after all, living in a "home" and not a share of stock or calculated number.

Not the Grand Funk Railroad...

Bridge in early 1900's looking toward Black Rock

… it was the Grand Trunk Railway.  They’re the ones who built the International Railway Bridge that spans the Niagara River in Black Rock.  Connecting Black Rock to Fort Erie, ON, the bridge extends over the I-190 and Squaw Island.  It rotates to provide clearance for larger ships in the Black Rock Canal.  It also provides passage over to Squaw Island with a pedestrian and vehicle lane.

The bridge has been around since 1873, but plans for it began in 1857.   And we all complain because the Peace Bridge expansion is taking so long!

The total length of this bridge is 3,651.5 feet in three distinct sections:

Canadian shoreline across Niagara River to Squaw Island - 1,967.5 feet
the width of Squaw Island - 1,167 feet
across the Black Rock Canal - 517 feet

Its large piers are strong enough to withstand a current of between 7 – 12 knots.  While the dog and I both swim for exercise in the river, we do not swim off of Squaw Island as the current is too strong to be safe.

Traffic on the bridge is not too heavy, anywhere from ten to fifteen trains per day.  The number of cars per train crossing can be long.  The traffic is not loud by any means and generally only audible if you listen for it.  There are more trains running at night it seems.  The crossings are not at street grade, so they don’t inhibit driving either.  Deaborn Street is actually interrupted by the train right of way approximately one block beyond the house.  At the base of the street there is a field that can easily be walked over and which connects to the lower portion of the Dearborn which runs for another block.  Fed Ex has an office and parking on the North side of the tracks.

We walk over to Squaw Island from the base of Dearborn, crossing Niagara at Bridge Street.  There is a parking lot for the Army Corps of Engineer.  It links with the bike path that can either be taken down to connect to the portion of the path heading West or you can bear right and head over the bridge.  Plenty of times we’ve crossed over when there has been a person manning the station that moves the bridge (it is a "swing" bridge and rotates rather than raises and lowers).  We get a friendly wave.  Once you get over to the Island, you need to get off the bridge.  There is always a Border Patrol officer monitoring the bridge and the park and it would likely be impossible to make it all of the way to Canada on foot using the bridge.

This bridge is a nice piece of history and it’s also very useful locally for those of us who want to enjoy the park.

How Old Are You Now?

One of the things you often need to know when you file for historic status, is how old the house is.  We had no answer to that!

Determining the exact year built of the house is not possible.  The title serves as a "Who's Who" of important landowners of the early 1800's but there is no clear indication of construction.  Construction pre-dates annexation into the City of Buffalo and no property records exist prior to that.

The title might seem the way to answer the question.  Or maybe going through the property records.  No such luck for this old house!  The problem with relying on the title, is was that land was vigorously bought and sold in the pursuit of real estate dominance as factions representing Black Rock and Buffalo fought for supremacy.  The land was owned before it was developed and no entry on the title precisely states that the house was built or existed on the plot.


One guess at when a structure might have first stood could be based on the first occurance of mortgage insurance on the property.   A bank might require insurace if there was a structure of value being part of a loan. However, there are no records to substantiate this.  The city lists all house from this pre-annexation period as 1865, but this house is definitely older than that.

What is known, is that the neighborhood started to develop in the 1820's and 30's with the opening of the Erie Canal and the construction of the lock at the foot of Austin St.  The area flourished on its own and the development ran parallel to that of the City of Buffalo (originally called New Amsterdam).   Black Rock was annexed into the larger City of Buffalo in 1855. No property records exist for homes in Black Rock prior to that.

What is also known, is that 243 Dearborn St. existed on the Sanborn Fire maps from the earliest dates in the 1860's, situated on the current lot, and noted as a brick house.  The construction material would be of specific interest for fire insurance purposes and that is why it is noted as Brick.




 



This is the first fire map of the city.  The layout appears to have two sections of the homes footprint.

Fire insurance maps are a critical tool in tracing history.

"The fire insurance map is probably the single most important record of urban growth and development in the United States during the past one hundred years.


It contains data used in estimating the potential risk for urban structures and includes such information as their construction material, height, and function as well as the location of lot lines.

The Sanborn Map Company has been the dominant American publisher of fire insurance maps and atlases for over seventy years.


Founded by D. A. Sanborn in 1867, the firm has issued and periodically updated detailed plans of 12,000 American cities and towns."--Library of Congress, Special Collections.


Interesting brick fact:

Brick was the most expensive building material at the time the house was built.

In 1840, brick cost $2.75 per thousand -- nearly three times the daily wage of a skilled worker -- while lumber sold at $4 to $8 per 1,000 feet.

(see: http://www.buffaloah.com/a/DCTNRY/mat/brk/vogel/index.html#Bricks)

Major development of the neighborhood began in the 1840's which is probably why the SHPO researchers pegged this as the time of original construction.  It is possible that the house existed before then but that is not something that can be proven.

That the lot is wider and deeper than all of the other lots is a decent indication that it is certainly the oldest surviving house on the block.  The Sanborn map showes that it used to go all of the way through to East St.

Most blocks in the city are thin and deep because assessments were based on frontage.  The average residential lot in Black Rock is 85-90 feet deep with 30-35 feet frontage. The lot is uncommonly large, a 47 x 112 deep.   The lot size, the width and the building material is a good indication that the house did not belong to someone of the "working class."  Census information of past owners indicate that it was most likely the home of more notable residents as it was not uncommon for prominent business owners to construct homes near their facilities. It would also bear out that the home could only have been built using the bricks manufactured at the brickyard on Tonawanda St.

Here's another old map -- it's so old that it shows that many streets in the neighborhood have since been renamed.  The Dayton House was likely built on "Niagara."

Conjecture and deduction plays the largest part in trying to determine the history of the house.

We are taking the circa 1840 estimate of construction as a conservative estimate.  We really think the house is older than that.  However, the historic standing is not based on age alone.  The construction, style and history are what also make it special.

And as an end note, the bricks shown in back of the title section on the top of the page are from the South side of the front/original section of the house.  These are the real deal!